First time trekkers in Nepal
This spring, our new Operations & Marketing Assistant, Jess, decided to tackle the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek. Despite being only 23, Jess is already a veteran traveller having been to India, Japan, New Zealand and Southeast Asia, to name but a few of the far-flung destinations she’s visited. However, she’d never been to Nepal and was keen to experience it for the first time.
When she told her Dad, Rob, about her plans he decided that 63 was the perfect age to start his own long-haul adventures, and signed up with Jess for the ultimate father, daughter bonding experience.
They flew to Kathmandu in March and returned safe and sound 16 days later having successfully reached Annapurna Base Camp (ABC), and without falling out! We were keen to know how they get on, so asked them each a few questions about their first ever trek in Nepal.
What were your expectations about Nepal and how did it match up?
Jess: Having spent time travelling in India I assumed Nepal would be quite similar, especially in terms of the food, culture and architecture. There are some similarities, but Nepal has its own unique vibe. I loved the way that nature, cultural traditions and spirituality blended so effortlessly together, and the people were so friendly, warm and welcoming.
Rob: I didn’t really know what to expect to be honest. Having never been on holiday outside of Europe, or to a less developed country, I just knew Nepal would be very different. And it was! The people, the culture, and the scenery were constantly surprising.
How was Kathmandu?
Jess: We spent a morning on a pre-arranged guided tour of the main sights of central Kathmandu including Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple) and the Durbar Square area. Our hotel, the Kathmandu Guest House, was in Thamel so it was easy to explore the buzzing shops, cafes and bars that line the streets there. Despite being so close to the tourist action, the hotel was surprisingly peaceful and relaxing with beautiful gardens. The staff were incredibly warm and helpful.
Rob: I really enjoyed our tour of Kathmandu. The Buddha stupa of Swayambhunath was a real highlight, even though the famous monkeys were sleeping! The funeral pyres (ghats) at Pashupatinath Temple were fascinating and not at all sombre. We also got to view some local artworks which were on display at the gallery in the hotel. I thought the Kathmandu Guest House was first class, with great rooms, good food and a lovely lawned area – perfect for relaxing with a Yeti Blonde beer!
Tell us more about the trek. Was your guide good?
Jess: Durga, our guide, was brilliant. From the moment he greeted us at Pokhara airport we got on well. He was so knowledgeable and able to answer our endless questions. He effortlessly managed the logistics on trek so that everything ran smoothly.
Rob: Our guide, Durga, was excellent and he was ably assisted by Gauri, our porter – they were very attentive to our needs. Durga was very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna in the Annapurnas, identifying the many plants and animals we saw. I’m a real gardening enthusiast so thoroughly enjoyed seeing the masses of rhododendrons, magnolias and Daphnes that bring some real springtime colour to the mountain trails. We also saw Macaque monkeys and grey langurs plus lots of wonderful birds, including lots of Eurasian cuckoos which are sadly becoming a rare sight at home in Gloucestershire. Without Durga, we wouldn’t have spotted nearly so much.
What were the tea houses like?
Jess: Although the tea houses were simple they did have everything we needed – twin-bedded rooms, toilet facilities (western or squat style) and water for washing. Some even had rudimentary warm showers. We’d eat in a shared dining room with other trekkers and, although most tea houses offer the same menus, the food was consistently tasty and satisfying. Dal Bhat and momos (filled dumplings) quickly became my favourites.
Rob: Having mainly stayed in hotels on previous holidays, the tea houses were rather basic by comparison and the sanitation takes a bit of getting used to. Mostly though they were fine and I did enjoy the food and drink, especially the dal bhat and masala chai tea.
How difficult was the trekking?
Jess: Since I started working for Mountain Kingdoms, I’ve heard a lot about the Annapurna Sanctuary trek from colleagues and clients who’ve done it. I also do plenty of exercise and walking so I was well-prepared and didn’t find it too demanding. My only worries beforehand were that I might get ill or suffer from altitude sickness but I was fine. I think a big part of that was the way the trip was planned. Mountain Kingdoms actually does the route in reverse compared to a lot of other companies, which means you get a more gradual ascent and more time to adjust before hitting higher elevations. The slower pace made a huge difference, I never felt rushed or like my body was under too much strain. The itinerary gave us time to properly acclimatise, and I think that’s what helped me avoid any symptoms. The hardest part was actually the heat and humidity in the first couple of days when we were at lower altitudes in the foothills. It’s surprising how warm it gets during the daytime even in March. My only regret was not packing more t-shirts!
Rob: I thought the trek up to ABC might be challenging, but I didn’t have too many worries about fitness as I’m a keen walker with a few UK long-distance paths under my belt. The trails were all easy to follow and the views from the top of the climbs were worth the extra effort. I only had a slight headache due to the higher altitude. In contrast to the hot temperatures at the start of the trek, we got quite a bit of snow as we got towards ABC, which I wasn’t expecting. That made the path quite slippery, but we took our time and managed to stay upright.
What were your favourite things and what will you treasure most about the experience?
Jess: Despite seeing hundreds of photos of the trek beforehand, the scenery still blew me away. It was absolutely spectacular and surprisingly varied from the lush, green foothills to the immense Himalayan peaks at the Sanctuary. Watching the mountains turn golden at sunrise never got tired. In fact the whole experience reminded me how important it is to slow down and really take in the moment. But the thing I’ll treasure most is the time I spent with my Dad – I’ll cherish those moments forever.
Rob: Climbing to Annapurna Base Camp and experiencing the pristine snow and clear blue sky was unforgettable, as was watching sunrise the next day with Jess and Durga.
Would you do it again?
Jess: Absolutely, I enjoyed every second. It was a fantastic first trek in the Himalaya and I’m now ready for something more challenging with some high passes. In fact, I’m already planning to do the Manaslu Circuit Trek this autumn – I can’t wait to go back.
Rob: Yes, it’s made me want to do more trekking and experience more places. Although I think my next trip will be a bit closer to home and in a bit more comfort. Perhaps the Three Peaks of the Balkans trek next spring.
If you are interested in the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek give Jess a call on 01453 844400 – she’s always happy to chat and can answer any questions you may have.