Textiles Tour of Southern India

Day 1 - Fly from London to Chennai

Today you depart on your overnight flight to Chennai in southern India.

Overnight: In flight

Day 2 - Arrive Chennai. Transfer to Pondicherry - approximately 3 hours. Tour the city.

You will arrive in the morning at Chennai airport in Tamil Nadu, the southernmost state of India. Here you will be met and transferred to Pondicherry and your hotel for the next three nights.

After settling into your room and enjoying some welcome rest and nourishment, an afternoon rickshaw tour will introduce you to the charming French architecture and Tamil quarters of this heritage town. The French first set foot in Pondicherry (also known as Puducherry) in 1670. Their undisturbed rule ended in 1954 and today significant elements of this colonial Gallic past rub shoulders with the indigenous Tamil culture. In addition to the diverse local markets, you may likely visit the famous Sri Aurobindo Ashram, a notable spiritual centre in the city. If time permits, you will go to Atelier Shanti, a rehabilitation centre, where women engage in various textile related activities including dying yarn, weaving, embroidery etc. They also produce high quality cotton material at very reasonable prices.

An evening stroll along the promenade, taking in the joyful atmosphere of families and friends savouring this seafront location, which overlooks the Bay of Bengal in the Indian Ocean, is a perfect end to your first day in southern India.

Overnight: Villa Shanti Or Similar, Pondicherry

Day 3 - Morning visit to Colours of Nature in Auroville, with workshop. Afternoon tour of Auroville.

Today you will travel just a few kilometres north of Pondicherry to Auroville.

Built on the principles of collective community, Auroville came into being in 1968 as a place for alternate living where people could reside in harmony, preserving nature and culture. It is currently home to around sixty nationalities from around the world. The Matrimandir, a large golden dome (its inner chamber designed solely for silent meditation), and the informative visitor centre serve as the central focus. From here the settlement is spread out and dotted with environmentally friendly, small and medium-scale enterprises, which focus on Auroville's efforts towards a self-supporting township.

The morning will be spent at an inspiring textile unit called Colours of Nature, where it is intended you take part in a workshop. Founded in 1993, Colours of Nature produces 100% eco-friendly natural dyed textiles and has offered a sustainable livelihood to generations since then. The centre employs a range of plants including pomegranate, marigold flower, sappan wood, madder and even upcycled jackfruit tree sawdust, but their main specialism is the ancient natural indigo dyeing fermentation technique. The numerous ‘living’ dye vats are testament to this ongoing commitment.

In preparation for the practical session, you will be introduced to the spectrum of dyes and processes involved in the project’s cloth and clothing production, followed by the provision of the specific fabric and raw materials required for your workshop. Here you will have an opportunity to stitch shibori designs and prepare samples for tie dyeing and clamping prior to dyeing in the indigo vats.

Auroville has multiple crafts and small industries that use mainly organic materials and follow ecofriendly, responsible practices; later in the day you will visit a mix of these units with a knowledgeable Aurovillian guide who will show you how the community works.

Overnight: Villa Shanti Or Similar, Pondicherry

Day 4 - Ashokavannam rural working farm with eco-printing workshop.

Today you will travel in a little under an hour north-west from Pondicherry, through rural landscape to an organic family farm where you will be welcomed and immersed in a hands-on experience creating your own natural eco-prints onto fabric.

Ashokavannam is run by mother-daughter duo Shobana Vaidyanathan and Champa Lakshmi and the day will start with a brief tour of their 100 year old ancestral house and kitchen garden before learning the processes involved in crafting your own botanical prints on fabric using leaves and flowers gathered from the lush garden and surrounding village.

In the workshop you will learn how to create and build up your own sample prints, gaining insights into how various fabrics and dyes interact with different types of vegetation and how to modify the resulting colours. The bundled fabrics will be then left to cook in the dye-pot while you relax and enjoy a home-made Tamil lunch freshly prepared following traditional ancestral recipes.

After lunch everyone will have the anticipation of opening their own bundle to reveal the prints and fix them onto the fabric. The day’s events at the farm will end with a communal discussion and photo session before you collect your printed pieces. Raw materials and products will be available for purchase should you wish to continue developing the learned techniques back home!

Later you return to your hotel and the final evening in Pondicherry.

Overnight: Villa Shanti Or Similar, Pondicherry

Day 5 - Drive to Chennai - 3-4 hours, visiting Mahabalipuram and DakshinaChitra enroute. Rest of day at leisure.

Today you head back north along the Coromandel Coast to Chennai, stopping en route firstly to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Mahabalipuram, and secondly to visit DakshinaChitra, a living-history museum that showcases the heritage and culture of India’s southern states.

The group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram occupies a distinct position in classical Indian architecture. Once a celebrated port city of the Pallava dynasty, which ruled this area between 6th and 9th centuries CE, these majestic examples of temple architecture (some of the oldest in India) were mostly carved out of the natural rock landscape. Founded by the Pallava kings, the collection of sanctuaries comprise rock-cut cave temples known as mandapas, and the vast open-air bas-relief sculptures such as the famous ‘Descent of the Ganges’ – all testament to the astonishing craftsmanship in the region. The thousands of sculptures dedicated to the glory of Shiva, which are found in the temple of Rivage, are excellent examples of Pallava art.

It is believed by some that this area may conceivably have served as a school for young sculptors. The various sculptures, some unfinished, could have been examples of different architectural styles, possibly demonstrated by instructors and practised by young students. This can be seen in the Pancha Rathas (monolithic temples in the form of chariots) where each of the five Ratha is carved out of a single granite rock formation and sculpted in a different style.

Just twenty-five km south of central Chennai, DakshinaChitra Heritage Museum opened to the public in 1996. Dakshin Chitra literally means ‘a picture of the south’. To showcase the rich cultural heritage of South India through the architecture, art, lifestyles, craft and performing arts, it is a collection of eighteen authentic historical houses, which were acquired separately from the states of Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh after their owners had given them up for demolition. The original homes, in regional vernacular style, were purchased, taken down, transported and reconstructed at DakshinaChitra by artisans of the regions from where the houses came. Contextual exhibitions in each house round out the experience.

Chennai, also known as Madras, is the capital and largest city of Tamil Nadu. Upon arrival, you will check-in to your hotel for the two-night stay. The remaining part of the day will be at leisure, an opportunity to possibly take stock of the experiences so far and look forward to those to come. 

Overnight: G R T Grand Or Similar, Chennai

Day 6 - Visit Kalakshetra Foundation. Kalamkari Workshop.

Today will be spent soaking up the atmosphere at the Kalakshetra Foundation, where a kalamkari block printing workshop has been arranged.  

Spread over almost 100 acres by the seashore in Chennai, the Kalakshetra Foundation is a centre for artistic endeavour; for the study and performance of fine arts, envisioned and designed with the style and proportion of Indian aesthetics. Founded in 1936 by Rukmini Devi Arundale, the organisation is testimony to her vision of creating ‘a space where the essence of Indian thought would find expression through artistic education’.

Kalamkari is an ancient textile art form that is thought to have evolved around 3000 years ago in the state of Andhra Pradesh. There are two main methodologies of Kalamkari: hand painted and block printed. You will be participating in the latter, the Masulipatinam tradition, where the outlines and main components of a design are printed using hand-carved wooden blocks. The colours used are all natural, extracted from roots, leaves and flowers. These are combined with minerals such as iron and mordants like alum to achieve clarity and fix the hues into the cotton fabric. Traditional patterns frequently utilise motifs from the natural world such as intricate leaf and flower designs and elaborate birds, often entwined into a tree of life design. You will be expertly schooled through the numerous stages of this fascinating craft to produce your own composition.

On returning to your hotel, enjoy a relaxed evening before a very early start tomorrow morning.

Overnight: G R T Grand Or Similar, Chennai

Day 7 - Train to Mysuru (Mysore). Afternoon - visit city palace and Devaraja fruit & vegetable market.

Today you will embark on the next leg of your tour, heading westwards via Bangalore to Mysuru. You will be transferred to Chennai railway station to board the Vande Bharati Express at 05:50 A fast, comfortable train, mainly for tourists and with only a couple of stops, it arrives in Mysuru at 12:20. Here you will be met and transferred to your hotel for the next two nights.

Mysuru, situated in the foothills of the Chamundi Hills, lies at an altitude of 770m/2,530 ft southwest of Bangalore in the state of Karnataka. Celebrated for its impressive, majestic heritage, it is a captivating municipality often called the ‘City of Palaces’. Indeed, in the afternoon you are scheduled to visit the most grand and famous, Mysore Palace, once the official royal residence of the Wadiyar dynasty who were known to be patrons of art and culture. Surrounded by a large garden, the architectural design of the palace is Indo-Saracenic and blends together Hindu, Muslim, Rajput and Gothic styles of architecture.

Alongside this architectural opulence, you will also have opportunity to immerse yourself in the less ostentatious, but completely atmospheric, bustling lanes of the historic Devaraja Market. A feast for the eyes, the market is renowned for vibrant flower, fruit, vegetable and spice stalls piled high with texture and colour. Wafts of exotic incense and the aroma of local foods and delicacies will draw you in to further explore the surrounding streets and traditional delights of this fascinating bazaar district.

Overnight: Royal Orchid Metropole Hotel, Mysore

Day 8 - Morning - visit to silk processing village. Afternoon - further explore Mysuru region and the traditional embroidery area of the city.

This morning you will be emersed in the study of silk. From the days of the Maharajas, Mysuru has been famous for its silk industry. Driving approximately one hour out of the city to where sericulture is still practiced using traditional methods, you will have the opportunity to see and learn about the whole process of silk production from unravelling of the silk thread from the cocoons through to the weaving of the illustrious and lustrous fabric.

This afternoon you will head approximately 15km north of Mysuru to Srirangapatna on the Kaveri river. Famous places here include the Tipu Sultan Summer Palace and Sri Ranganthaswamy temple, a significant and grand Hindu shrine which is dedicated to Ranganatha, a manifestation of Lord Vishnu.

Just a few kilometres west along the river is the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary where over 170 different species of birds have been recorded. Here you may see Painted Storks, Kingfishers, Spot-billed Pelicans, Herons, Indian Rollers and more.

Back in Mysuru, if time permits, a visit to the hand embroiderers of the city will be planned. Known locally as Kasuti, this traditional form of folk embroidery is particularly fine and delicate and stitched with no ‘wrong’ side so both sides of the cloth look alike. Defined by thousands of stitches meticulously detailing a variety of intricate patterns and often featuring nature-inspired designs, it was once one of the 64 essential arts the women courtiers of the 17th century Mysore Kingdom were expected to master. Passed through the generations, this painstaking craft is still very much alive today.

Overnight: Royal Orchid Metropole Hotel, Mysore

Day 9 - Drive to Wayanad - 5 hours. Afternoon walk in the spice and coffee plantation.

Today your tour continues south-westwards as you drive through the undulating landscapes of Karnataka and then Kerala to reach the district of Wayanad, set high in the Western Ghats.

Another region of ancient history, evidenced by 6000-year-old rock engravings, it is understood that human settlements have been here since the neolithic age. Several indigenous tribes, each with distinct cultural identity and dialect have, for centuries, inhabited the region.

Situated in the southern part of the Deccan Plateau, Wayanad is a scenic and verdant destination of lush forests, mist covered mountains, sparkling lakes and plantations including coffee, tea, pepper, and cardamom.

You stay for two nights at After the Rains Rainforest Lodge, a simple property set in a sixteen-acre contoured spice garden with striking views of the valley and forests of Nilambur. It is a great place to experience life on a working spice and coffee plantation. In the afternoon enjoy a walk in the plantation where you can see how the various crops are grown, harvested and processed. As Wayanad district is bordered by a protected network of different biological reserves, it is also a noted place for birding.

Overnight: After The Rains Rainforest Lodge

Day 10 - Visit Uravu for a Bamboo Workshop. Later visit tea plantation and factory.

This morning, a short drive north takes you to Thrikkaipetta village to visit Uravu, a pioneering not for profit organisation committed to empowering local tribes through sustainable bamboo practices. Established in 1996, it is a hub for bamboo crafts design and production.

We take a guided tour to understand more about the way this organisation works. Bamboo requires little maintenance so is an ideal plant to cultivate in the village, providing raw materials for the local artisans. You will learn about the range of species grown and spend time in the nursery and lush plantations to see propagation and harvesting techniques, later visiting the processing facilities to observe how the raw bamboo is crafted and shaped into various practical handcrafted artefacts.

Additionally, a workshop will be organised where you will be given a hands-on experience of the techniques of making a traditional basket or mat. Surrounded by mountains, the village is a charming place to walk through. There will also be opportunity to peruse the interesting and comprehensive shop!

After returning to your hotel, for those interested, a visit to the local village or tea factory can be arranged. Or you may wish simply to relax and take in the atmosphere of this very green and terraced realm.

Overnight: After The Rains Rainforest Lodge

Day 11 - Drive to Kannur in Kerala - 115km approximately, 2½ hours. Visit cotton handloom weavers.

Today a morning drive down the western ghats to the tropical climate and village of Melur in Kannur completes your journey across Sothern India. On arrival check into the Heritage 1866, a lovingly restored heritage mansion, for your two-night stay. It is a great place to explore a real Keralan village, away from the tourist circuits.

The Malayalee people are a significant ethnic group native to this state and Malayalam is the majority language here. It is thought that the name Kerala derives from the Malayalam word kera ‘coconut tree’ and alam ‘land; hence, ‘land of the coconuts’. They are certainly in abundance!

Dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, weaver families from Tamil Nadu settled in Kannur, producing exquisite woven fabrics for temples and royals. Still culturally rich, Kannur, now often hailed as the ‘Land of Looms’, is well known for this heritage of quality cotton handloom weaving. The skill, excellence of design and dedication of the local artisans not only produces superb textiles but also results in social and economic stability for the rural communities. It particularly empowers the women (many of whom are the weavers) as they achieve financial independence and can showcase their individual creativity. Over the next couple of days you will have time to visit some of these weaving workshops, watch the methods and techniques of dyeing, warping and weaving, and appreciate the expertise as the weavers translate their complex designs into vibrantly coloured cloth. It will be possible to buy some of these hand loomed cotton fabrics.

There will also be opportunity to unwind, consider a swim in the Arabian sea or take a leisurely stroll along the unspoilt shores of this part of the coast.

Overnight: The Heritage 1866 Or Similar, Thalassery

Day 12 - Visit the Textile Museum. Cooking demonstration with lunch. Local temple/ possible Theyyam ritual.

A visit to the local Textile Museum brings context to the weaving you have already seen. You will have time to explore the exhibits and soak in the information. But you won’t be tested afterwards!

Later you will partake in a home cooking demonstration of the delectable Malabar cuisine and discover how to combine the distinctive mix of spices to cook authentic food which will delight the senses and tastebuds. This will be followed by a tasty lunch and chance to discuss the techniques and ingredients involved.

North Kerala is renowned for Theyyam, an ancient traditional ritual dance of the Malabar region, where local communities honour deities through elaborate performances. Colourful costumes, complex makeup and mesmerising dances serve to re-enact mythical stories and summon spiritual attachments. As this is a ritual, the local shrines do not publish dates in advance, so it isn’t certain we would have the opportunity to witness one of these astonishing performances. However it is hoped that during a visit to a local temple a Theyyam will be encountered.

We may head to the beach in the evening to watch through the coconut trees as the sun dips into the ocean.

Overnight: The Heritage 1866 Or Similar, Thalassery

Day 13 - Morning train to Alleppey (07:57 – 12:38). Board private riceboat for two-day cruise.

Transfer to Kannur Railway Station to again experience an Indian rail journey, this time on the Vande Bharat express heading south down the coast to Alleppey.

On arrival you will be met and transferred to the Puthenangadi jetty where you board your rice boat for a relaxing two day cruise on the palm fringed backwaters of Alleppey and Kuttanad. These boats once used to transport rice from the interiors of the backwaters to the market towns on the coast. With the advent of road network deep into the backwaters the boats have been significantly refurbished by local craftsmen and now take visitors in comparative luxury. We usually use 2 or 3 bedroom houseboats; these will be for the sole use of our group.

Setting off on the cruise you will be shown to your private ensuite room, yours for the next two nights. As you wind down and settle into the slower way of life on the water, a delicious home cooked lunch prepared by the houseboat’s resident chef will be served.  Meals centre around freshly caught fish and local vegetables/ rice/ coconut from neighbouring farmers. Vegetarian preferences can readily be catered for with equal care.

You are now primed for two days of total relaxation in spectacular surroundings as you are transported into another world.

Overnight: Riceboat

Day 14 - Riceboat cruise.

Enjoying a riceboat trip whilst in Kerala is a very special experience. Taking two days allows time to explore the innumerable waterways and quieter areas well off the beaten track.

From the delightful living spaces on board, take in scenes of the waterside villages and local families going about their day, floating supermarkets and fisherfolk selling their catch, and the joy of children playing hide and seek among the coconut palms, which abound. We may well see some of the varied products from this palm such as coconut mats, brushes, or threads and ropes being made.

Perhaps you will try some Toddy; a ‘palm wine’ naturally produced from the sap taken from the cut flower of the tree. Initially, the collected white liquid is non-alcoholic and tends to be quite sweet, but the sap begins fermenting immediately due to natural yeasts meeting with the air. Within two hours, fermentation yields an aromatic wine of up to 4% alcohol content, mildly intoxicating and sweet. 

On both days you will have the opportunity to take an even quieter excursion on a small canoe through some of the narrower backwaters, allowing you to glide by small, centuries old dwellings and landscapes in total peace and harmony. For bird enthusiasts there are myriads of species to see including fish eagles, herons, kingfishers, cormorants and bee-eaters. It is a bird photographers paradise!

Having completely settled into the slower pace of life on the water, enjoy a last evening meal of delicacies specially cooked for you and revel in sweet slumbers.

Overnight: Riceboat

Day 15 - Late morning disembark from the boat. Drive to Munnar - 175km, 3 hours. Afternoon visit to a tea estate with a walk.

This morning you leave Alleppey and drive eastwards winding up through the attractive landscape of the western ghats to Munnar, which sits at 1,600m/5,200ft. Here we stay for two nights at a modern hotel, Fragrant Nature, with good views of the surrounding contoured terraces and valley.

Munnar’s history traces back to the late 19th century, when British planters began cultivating tea on its misty hills. Over the years the estates have changed hands but still produce some of the best quality tea to be found in South India.  This afternoon enjoy a walk in the tea gardens and visit a tea factory to learn more about the production of this ubiquitous drink.

Overnight: Fragrant Nature Munnar Or Similar, Munnar

Day 16 - Full day visit and workshop at Aranya Naturals, Srishti Trust.

Working with differently abled children and young adults of Munnar, the Srishti Trust focuses on education and empowerment through meaningful training. Srishti translates as ‘creation’, and by nurturing skills in art and craft, and bonding with the natural world, the intention is to generate creative, sustainable livelihoods for the community. A handmaking paper unit, a natural dyeing unit, a school and a bakery comprise Srishti’s centre.

In the natural dye section Aranya Naturals stands out as a pioneering project in natural dyeing. Their commitment to sustainability is evident by exclusively use natural dyes, avoiding all synthetic alternatives. The full day hands-on workshop includes activities such as preparing natural dyes from locally sourced plants and herbs, dyeing fabrics, and creating unique handcrafted textile products. Indigo resist printing, wax resist block printing and clamp tie dyeing are practised. Today we will learn some of these techniques.

Srishti’s on site shop is extensively stocked with beautiful natural dyed collections of silk and cotton fabrics, scarves and clothes. There are also many hand-made paper products from the paper unit, plus a small bakery/ deli. Later there may time to explore the delights of Munnar town.

Overnight: Fragrant Nature Munnar Or Similar, Munnar

Day 17 - Drive to Cranganore Riverside Chateau -120km. Rest of day at leisure.

Embarking on the last leg of our tour, this morning you will head down from the hills and back towards the coast. Our last three nights will be at the beautiful Cranganore Riverside Chateau, a calming haven of tranquillity, located on the banks of the Periyar river.

Historically, this area was once the realm of an ancient harbour and urban centre known as Muzuris. Believed to have been one of the most important trading centres in the Indian ocean region, it connected the Malabar Coast with the Roman Empire, Egypt, and the rest of the world through maritime trade. Though lost over time, the site is now one of India’s largest heritage conservation projects, with archaeologists still excavating and continuing to find more artefacts. It is also thought to be the place where Christianity first came to India, when St Thomas first landed near here; the first church built still exists.

Cranganore Riverside Chateau is a perfect place to unwind and explore this culturally rich part of Kerala and the remainder of the day is yours to enjoy as you wish. The property has the feeling of a retreat with its serene atmosphere, wonderful gardens and idyllic views over the water. You could take time out to relax in a favourite seating area found strategically placed around the grounds; watch the birdlife in the trees and listen to the soothing sounds of nature; luxuriate in the magnificent infinity pool, which appears to seamlessly blend into the river; or perhaps take in a traditional Ayurveda massage with herbs from the garden. More active alternatives include renting a bicycle or a kayak to explore further afield.

There is also the option to take a short drive to the relatively quiet Cherai Beach where you may like to chill out in the Chilli Out Café. As its name implies, the food and drinks served are not spicey and may be welcome at this stage in the trip! Possibly take a dip or stroll along the sands and later enjoy a mocktail as the sun dips into the Arabian Sea.

Overnight: Cranganore Riverside Chateau

Day 18 - Day to explore the locale around Chendamangalam.

With the whole day to explore the area, you will visit the palaces of the Paliam family who were the ministers to the Cochin Maharaja. The palace complex includes a museum displaying rare artefacts, documents, and memorabilia, offering visitors a window into Kerala’s feudal and colonial past. One of the most remarkable features of Chendamangalam (the village which lies just across the river from Cranganore) is the close proximity of places of worship from different faiths—a Hindu temple, a Christian church, a Mosque, and a Jewish synagogue. In this village you will also be able to visit the local market.

Chendamangalam has a famous handloom weaving tradition and the traditional muslin sarees are sought after the world over. The units were all but destroyed in the devastating floods of 2018 but have now made a comeback with the support from the community. You will visit a cooperative handloom society to see the making these traditional fabrics.

During our last couple of days we will try to witness at least part of a Kathakali production - a traditional form of Indian classical dance indigenous to Kerala. With the most vivid costumes and head dresses and elaborate makeup, it can take a skilled Kathakali troupe many hours to prepare for the magnificent spectacle of the nuanced performances. As with many religious stories and folk legends across the world, the dance symbolises the eternal fight between good and evil.

Overnight: Cranganore Riverside Chateau

Day 19 - Excursion to Fort Kochi and Mattancherry.

Fort Kochi, formerly known as Fort Cochin, is a vibrant port city and the commercial hub of Kerala. Exploring the charmingly atmospheric and historic streets, it soon becomes apparent how the city’s colourful past as the centre of India’s spice trade has shaped its architecture and identity over the centuries. Merchants from China, Arabia and Europe transformed Kochi into a cosmopolitan melting pot of cultural exchange; and colonial influences of the Dutch, Portuguese and the British are evident in the faded buildings and monuments that line the streets. It is a delight to walk through. Almost every mention of Fort Kochi will bear an image of the intriguing and sculptural Chinese fishing nets on the waterfront. Believed to have been introduced in the 14th century by Chinese traders, today just a few remain of the many that once characterised the area.

There is much to see in the neighbourhood of Mattancherry in old Kochi, including a visit to the wholesale spice market with sacks piled high – an aromatic and immersive experience. Famous buildings include the Dutch Palace; St Francis church, originally built in 1503 and one of the oldest European churches in India; and the synagogue (completed in 1568) in the quarter known as Jew Town. All these sites are testament to the extensive international heritage of the area.

Excellent antique bazaars, boutiques, handicrafts, jewellery and vintages stores abound; and as you wander the streets, lively graffiti can be seen juxtaposed alongside statuesque banyan trees. When you need a break, you may simply wish to choose one of the many art cafés and watch the world go by.  

Later we return back to the calm of Cranganor for a final evening dinner to mark the end of our tour and reflect on the wealth of our magnificent experiences.

Overnight: Cranganore Riverside Chateau

Day 20 - Group transfer to the airport for international flight.

Transfer to Cochin airport in the morning for your return flight.